2012年11月 5日 09:42
Kurama Hi-Matsuri,
or Kurama Fire Festival, takes place every year on the 22nd of October, the same day as Jidai Matsuri.
I was really determined to see them both, but I could only make my way to the train station around 6 PM. I wouldn't really recommend anyone to go this late though, because the trains leaving for Kurama get fully packed in the evening. We had to let one pass in front of us and we barely managed to squeeze into the next one. As we were among the last to arrive at the mountain, we didn't get much choice of picking our spots. Ropes were lined along the sides of the streets and dozens of police officers were scattered all over, in order to make sure everyone was enjoying the festival in a disciplined and responsible manner. This might seem a bit too much, but the number of visitors easily surpasses 12.000, which could quickly turn the festival into a horrifyingly hazardous experience, considering the extremely narrow streets on which the gigantic torches are paraded.
That being said, if you are willing to look past all of the logistical details, you are in for an truly memorable experience. The festivity dates as far back as 940 AD, and it began as a harvest holiday, celebrating the return of the kami (gods) to their home shrine. At 6 PM, kagaribi - or bonfires - are being lit in front of all the houses at once, after which the villagers grab their pine torches (taimatsu) and proceed in the direction of Kurama-dera Temple, marching to the sound of the taiko drums. Children holding smaller torches and chanting "saireya-sairyo" lead the procession, followed by the adults, carrying massive torches that can weigh up to 100 kg, in the direction of the Yuki Shrine. Starting from there, two portable shrines (mikoshi) are carried all across the village. After arriving at the bottom of the mountain, offerings are made to the gods, while the people dance around the bonfires, up until midnight, when the two mikoshi return to the shrine.
Unfortunately, I didn't get the chance to witness the last part, because it was very crowded and we were afraid we'd miss the train back to Kyoto. But the parts that I did experience were incredible. The hypnotic sound of the drums and the timeless chants, the men who could still find the energy to jump up and down, even stooped under their flaming burdens, the beautiful mountains surrounding the village... It's overwhelming to the point where it inspires a kind of religious awe, even within non-religious people.
On the way back to Kyoto, we could admire the autumn leaves, that were just beginning to change colours. From what I have heard, it looks amazing at the end of November, when all of the evening trains slow down, so the passengers can admire the spectacular scenery. I'd love to go to Kurama again and see for myself!