2012年10月29日 09:47
Jidai Matsuri, or Festival of the Ages
Jidai Matsuri (時代祭り) is among the most well-known events that take place around Kyoto, so I was really looking forward to October 22nd. I made sure to be free that day, so I wouldn't miss anything.
First of all, let's get some historical background. In 1895, Heian Jingu was inaugurated, in order to celebrate the passing of 1100 years since Heian-kyo had been founded by Emperor Kammu (who is also the deity of the shrine, along with Emperor Koumei, the last one to rule from here). About thirty years earlier, the capital had been moved to Tokyo, so the people of Kyoto established this grandiose festival, as a means of celebrating the city's history and consolidating its position as cultural centre of Japan.
The main event of the festival is, of course, the impressive procession that includes approximately 2000 people. Starting from the more recent Meiji era, which began in 1868, it illustrates the history of Kyoto all the way back to 794 - the beginning of Heian period - through the most important political and cultural figures of the time, as well as the typical style of various categories of common people. I was amazed when I found out that all of the costumes and accessories used are historically accurate, down to the smallest detail. Even the process of weaving and dying the fabrics is carried out in the same way as the originals.
The festival begins in the morning with some preparatory rituals that take place at Heian Jingu shrine and near the Keirei-mon Gate in the Kyoto Imperial Garden. At 12:00, the procession begins in front of the Imperial Palace, arriving at the shrine approximately three hours later, covering a distance of about two kilometres throughout the city.
Since I got to the starting place just a few minutes before noon, I didn't have much time to look around before the procession began, completely hypnotising me. About an hour and a half later though, the spell began to wear off as I was withering under the burning hot sun, quite unusual for the middle of October. The icecream vendors scattered throughout the park were having a really good day, but I decided to move on alongside the procession.
Strolling in the lovely shadow of the tall buildings on Karasuma and Oike boulevards, I regretted not having left the park earlier on. Suddenly, the procession had become much more lively itself. Watching it in front of the Imperial Palace, from a respectable distance, it had this sort of unapproachable sumptuousness, making me feel as if I was watching a documentary on a screen. But later on, I could amuse myself with the delightful contrast between this diverse set of historical characters passing amidst the day-to-day people watching from both sides of the street, or seeing a group of majestic warriors waiting at a stoplight, just as inscrutable as ever. I leisurely walked beside my bike all the way to the Heian shrine, stopping every once in a while to admire some more or take pictures. It was a bit like travelling through time, I could move back and forth between the eras of the past or just watch their journey. I could also take notice of the subtle differences that showed the evolution of the costumes, and I loved the way that even the men's attire was becoming more and more colourful and ornate as we were reaching the older eras.
Later on, I stumbled upon this page on Heian Jingu's website, describing all the historical personalities present throughout the procession. I really regret not finding it earlier, as it would've helped me understand more of what I saw at the festival. (I have to admit the only ones I'd recognized from the pictures were Murasaki Shikibu and Sei Shounagon.) Nevertheless, there's always next time, as they say - or I like to pretend so.
As I couldn't help firing my camera continuously at the beginning, even though I was quite far from the procession, I ran out of memory space later on, when I could've taken better pictures. But here you can look at some amazing pictures taken by another participant.
Unfortunately, I couldn't stay until the closing rituals, as I had to meet my friends to leave for the fire festival at Kurama, which was also taking place during that day. But more about that, in a future post.